Published in: Media
When I first picked up The Ernie Diaries, my initial thought was to pass on it. The cover didn’t grab me. We’re often advised to not judge books by their covers and, annoyingly, I sometimes fall prey to that, too.
In this case, the cover’s slightly fuzzy photo is of an overloaded bright orange 500cc Norton, amidst what appears to be either a Turkish or Iranian desert. My curiosity grew when I took a moment to ignore the condition of the aging photo and saw that amongst the load was a tall wicker basket, and a tank bag that looked as if it was being held on for dear life with a ratchet strap, signally that this book had the potential to tell an oddball tale.
The subtitle then drew me in: “A motorcycle adventure from London to Iran in 1973.” It dawned on me that this was the year that Ted Simon set off around the world on his Triumph Tiger. And I began to ponder how the authors, Anne Betts and Des Molloy, would deal with motorcycle travel back then. In the early 1970s, the concept of expedition-like overlanding by motorcycle was barely on anyone’s radar.
In those days, Australians and New Zealanders were allowed to come to the U.K. to work, which is what brought Anne and Des there. The like-minded often made their way to London via Africa or South America not just to earn money but for the opportunity to travel and experience life in a world different from their own. Some hitchhiked or took buses and trains, while others came by VW Kombies, VW Beetles, Morris Minis or beat up old vans. But only the tiniest number even considered motorcycling.
Anne and Des, once strangers until they found themselves in the mix of the nutty ’70s-era London, on a whim decided to motorcycle to Iran. Des, a proficient mechanic, chose a well-battered 1957 Norton ES2, in part because this elderly non-runner needed lots of work, and cost only £40! Anne had a tendency to see the funny side of life, and part of the fun is her descriptions of the shenanigans they got into around the decision to buy that bike.
There’s a lot of laughs in this book. The descriptions of the era are simply brilliant. They’re down to earth, incredibly honest and full of almost naive optimism—the world has changed so much since then. I loved reading about the friendships they made and the mad escapades that often involved too much British Bitter. I was fascinated by the range of jobs they found, and how sleeping 10 to an apartment for two was just something you did back then. This was a time of, “We can make it happen if we have a go.” Wings were being stretched and through hard work and innovation, dreams came alive. Serendipity played a major part in many of their tales—and they were wide open to opportunities, often making the most of some really quirky happenstances along the way.
It begins with the duo setting off for Scandinavia utilizing handmade plywood panniers and inefficient camping gear, and a small tool kit that was just enough to release Des’s inner MacGyver. Thus equipped, they wound their way through Eastern Europe and into the Balkans and Greece before crossing Turkey to Iran, experiencing all the quirkiness and challenges of the era.
Their storytelling reminded me of how much things have progressed and how even something as effective waterproofing is such a game-changer in ensuring a great trip. This is a story of some harsh adventures, but also of laughter, awe, respect, boundary stretching, amazing luck, and of others they meet on the road. We easily forget that not long ago there were no cell phones, GPS, or Internet, and The Ernie Diaries offers a glimpse into what motorcycle adventure travel life was all about back then. Yet, what’s not different from today, are the incredible landscapes, the amazing kindness of people, and the opportunities for smiles and self-discovery.
The Ernie Diaries was so fascinating, I read it twice! The first time with the itch to see what happened next. The second to pick up on the tiny details and descriptions that are woven into the story so neatly.
Published by: Kahuku Publishing
Price: Paperback $20 | Kindle $6
ISBN: 9780473674434
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